Roof Repairman Near Me: Fixing Flashing, Vents, and Skylight Leaks

Roof leaks rarely announce themselves in the middle of a sunny day. They show up during a nor’easter at 2 a.m., right over the dining room table. After two decades crawling attics and straddling ridgelines, I can tell you where most leaks begin: at the transitions. Flashings, roof vents, and skylights are the usual suspects, not the shingles themselves. Shingles shed water, but every hole or seam in that shingle field needs a carefully detailed, watertight path. Get that wrong by an inch, and you’ll see stained drywall, musty insulation, or worse, rotten sheathing.

If you’re searching for a roof repairman near me because your ceiling just sprouted a brown halo, you’re asking the right question. A skilled roofer can often fix these targeted problems without a full roof replacement. The key is diagnosis, materials discipline, and pragmatic judgment on Roof repair expressroofingnj.com when to repair and when to plan for a new system.

Where Water Sneaks In

Think like water. Gravity pulls it down, wind pushes it sideways, ice holds it in place until it melts and slithers into the smallest gap. Flashing, vents, and skylights interrupt the roof’s flow, which means they need step-by-step integration with shingles or membrane. On steep-slope roofs in New Jersey, where asphalt shingles dominate, I see three patterns again and again.

At chimneys and side walls, step flashing is either missing, too short, or not laced with each course of shingles. One failed step can channel water straight into a wall cavity. Someone may have smeared mastic along the joint as a shortcut, and for a season it looks fine. Then ultraviolet light and movement break the seal and water shows up inside.

At plumbing vents or furnace flues, the boot dries out and cracks, especially on southern exposures. Nails pull out of the upper flange, which lifts in wind and lets rain drive in. Many of the “mystery” leaks over bathrooms come from a failed neoprene boot that could have been replaced in under an hour.

At skylights, flashing kits get misapplied or skipped entirely. Skylight frames also move with temperature swings. If the curb is low or the ice and water shield doesn’t wrap up and over the curb, melting snow will find the joint. On older units, glass seals can fail and mimic a roof leak with condensation between panes.

A Walkthrough of a Real Inspection

A homeowner in Monmouth County called after a March storm. Water dripped through a recessed light near a brick chimney. From the attic, I could see a tea-colored trail running along a rafter, which tells you the leak traveled before it dripped. I probed the sheathing with an awl: sound. The culprit wasn’t a field shingle failure.

On the roof, the first clue was telltale tar smeared where the sidewall met shingles. No step flashing was visible. The counterflashing in the brick looked fine at a glance, but sweeping fasteners with a magnet picked up a handful of corroded nails on the upper courses, a sign the previous patcher had used too many exposed fasteners. I lifted one shingle course and confirmed it: continuous L flashing instead of individual steps. Water from above was slipping behind. The fix was straightforward, but it required removal and re-installation of about a 3 by 5 foot area to interweave new steps, plus saw cuts in mortar to seat proper counterflashing. The homeowner hoped for a tube of sealant solution. I explained why that would fail again the next storm cycle.

This is the kind of judgment a seasoned roofing contractor near me brings to a leak: locate the actual water path, not just the wet spot, and correct the assembly, not just the symptom.

Flashing: Small Pieces, Big Consequences

Step flashing belongs at every sidewall that meets shingles, and it must be woven in one piece per shingle course. Each L shaped piece typically measures 8 by 8 inches folded to 4 by 4, and sits on top of the lower shingle but under the one above it. The siding or counterflashing then overlaps the vertical leg. If you see a long run of metal under multiple courses without visible step pieces, it’s a red flag for future leaks.

Chimney flashings have four elements that work together. There is step flashing along the sides, a base flashing across the uphill side, a saddle or cricket on wider chimneys to divert water, and counterflashing that’s cut into the mortar joints. Many leaks come from a missing cricket on chimneys wider than 30 inches. In heavy rain, water stacks up behind a wide chimney, overtops the base flashing, and goes straight inside. Building code and common sense both favor a cricket in snow country like North Jersey.

Material choice also matters. Aluminum is common and cost effective, but it reacts badly with copper preservatives in some pressure treated lumber and can corrode against certain masonry. Galvanized steel holds up if well coated but can rust when cut edges are exposed. Copper costs more up front, often double or more, but it outlasts shingles by decades and plays well with masonry. If you plan to re-point a chimney and you’re thinking about long-term value, copper flashings make sense.

Vent Boots and Penetrations: The Five-Minute Leak

I call them five-minute leaks because diagnosis often takes longer than the repair. A plumbing vent boot has a base flange that slides under shingles and a flexible collar that seals around the pipe. Sun exposure and ozone crack the collar over 10 to 15 years. Squirrels sometimes chew them for the salts that collect there. When that happens, rain follows the pipe down through the roof deck.

A proper replacement means sliding the new boot under the upper courses, not face-nailing through the top of the flange. Sealant can be a helper, but nails belong where they stay dry. If winter temperatures make shingles brittle, we’ll gently warm them with a heat gun so they lift without breaking. I’ve seen homeowners dab silicone around a split collar and buy themselves a season. It’s a temporary bandage. A new boot, often a $25 part, saves hours of ceiling repair later.

Metal flues and HVAC vents have their own flashings. On low slope sections, I see rubber collars on B vent pipes shrink and pull back. High heat cycles speed up failure. In those cases, I’ll use a high temperature silicone boot or, for metal roofs, a malleable aluminum base that conforms to rib profiles. The principle is the same: layered, shingle-style integration so water always steps over, not under, the flashing.

Skylights: Design, Detailing, and Age

Manufacturers supply flashing kits for a reason. A curb-mounted skylight on asphalt shingles usually takes a stepped flashing kit matched to the roof pitch and material. Too many installations ignore the instructions and lap metal out of order. Even when the flashing is right, the underlayment detail can make or break the assembly. I run ice and water shield at least 12 inches up each side of the curb and wrap it over the top, not just to the curb. At the uphill side, I create a small diverter so water splits around the curb in heavy rain.

Skylights themselves age. On units more than 20 years old, glass seal failures show as fogging between panes, sometimes dripping inside when temperature swings are big. If the frame weeps internally, you’ll chase a roof leak that isn’t there. I carry a moisture meter and will check the sheathing and curb. If those are dry but the glass is wet inside the unit, you need a skylight replacement, not new shingles around it.

When a homeowner asks if a skylight can be saved during a roof replacement, I weigh the age and brand. Mid-grade units typically last 20 to 25 years before seals give up. If you’re already investing in new shingles, swapping out a tired skylight saves labor later and avoids cutting into a young roof to replace a failed unit. The price difference for a replacement during re-roofing is modest compared to an out-of-cycle change.

Repair or Replace: Making the Right Call

A focused roof repair can extend the life of a roof by years. If the shingles still have pliability, the granules aren’t shedding into the gutters excessively, and the problem is isolated to flashing or penetrations, I lean toward repair. In New Jersey’s climate, a quality architectural asphalt roof lasts about 18 to 28 years depending on ventilation, sun exposure, and maintenance. The lower end of that range often shows up on south-facing slopes with dark shingles and limited attic airflow.

There are thresholds where piecemeal fixes stop making sense. If shingles are curling or fractured, every lift risks breakage. If you see widespread blistering or alligatoring, or you can rub off granules by hand and expose the mat, the roof is near the end. Multiple active leaks in different details usually signal system fatigue. In those cases, you protect the home now with spot repairs, then plan a roof replacement within the next season or two.

When people ask for a new roof cost, I give ranges because every house has quirks. In New Jersey, for a typical 2,000 to 2,400 square foot home with a simple gable or hip, architectural asphalt shingles often run in the ballpark of $9,000 to $18,000, higher with steep pitches, complex valleys, or premium underlayments and accessories. The price of new roof projects has climbed with material costs over the past few years, and disposal fees and insurance also factor in. If a contractor prices far below the pack, ask what is being omitted. Ice and water shield at eaves, proper flashing replacement, and adequate ventilation should not be optional on our winters.

Finding the Right Roofing Contractor Near You

You want a pro who treats water like an opponent worth respecting. That starts with diagnosis. I value roofers who will climb into the attic, not just walk the eaves, and who explain the water path they see. A good roofer carries a camera and will show you photos of the issue before and after.

For homeowners searching roofing companies in New Jersey, licensing and insurance are table stakes. Ask for proof of liability and workers’ comp. Ask whether the company uses in-house crews or subs and who will supervise the job. Brands and warranties matter, but installation practices decide whether you’ll need me again in two years. I often see ice barriers omitted at rakes or skylight perimeters to save a roll. You cannot see those shortcuts from the driveway.

If you’re comparing a repair quote against full replacement, request line items: flashing work, underlayments, accessories, and labor. A roof repairman near me who writes a one-line “fix leak” proposal without detail may be a capable tech, but you’re flying blind on scope.

Weather Windows and Timing

New Jersey weather gives us repair windows between snow, rain, and summer heat. Asphalt shingle work goes best above 40 degrees, when adhesives activate and shingles flex. In cold snaps, we can still repair flashing, but care matters. I carry a small heat source to unstick stubborn tabs or to warm sealant for a reliable bond. On blazing July days, surface temperatures can exceed 150 degrees, which softens shingle mats and makes them prone to scuffing. We work earlier and later then, and use roof jacks and pads to prevent damage.

For skylight work, dry weather is ideal. Even with tarps and temporary covers, cutting a curb or pulling a sash in a downpour invites trouble. For emergency leaks, we’ll install a temporary over-cover with ice shield and metal, then return for permanent detailing when conditions turn.

What a Proper Repair Looks Like Up Close

On a sidewall flashing job, I’ll strip back shingles far enough to create a clean lay-in zone, usually at least two full courses above the leak. Any soft sheathing gets replaced, not sistered over. I prime masonry and cut reglets in mortar joints, aiming for at least an inch of embedment for counterflashing. Step flashing pieces are nailed high on the flange so fasteners stay above the weather line, with nails into the deck, not through the vertical leg. Each step overlaps the one below by at least 2 inches. Counterflashing is hemmed at the bottom edge, pinned in the joints with lead or clips, and sealed with a masonry-grade sealant, not general-purpose caulk.

For a vent boot, I slide the new boot under the uphill courses, fasten the base where it stays dry, and seal the shingle cutout against wind-driven rain. If the pipe is copper, I avoid aluminum bases to prevent galvanic reaction. If squirrels are a problem, I sometimes add a small stainless guard ring that keeps teeth off the rubber.

On skylights, I inspect the curb for square and height. A curb under 4 inches on a low slope invites snow intrusion. I’ll add curb height with treated lumber when needed and wrap the curb with peel-and-stick membrane up and over. The flashing kit then goes on in the order the manufacturer specifies, shingle by shingle on the sides, with a wide head flashing uphill. If the roof is a re-cover instead of a full tear-off, I stop. Skylights and re-covers rarely mix because the new shingle heights and old flashings create traps. I recommend full tear-off around skylights so the flashing sits on one consistent plane.

Cost Expectations for Targeted Repairs

A straightforward vent boot replacement might cost a couple hundred dollars, more if access is tricky or the slope is steep. Chimney re-flashing, including cutting new counterflashing and adding a cricket, often runs from the high hundreds into a few thousand depending on size, masonry condition, and roof pitch. Skylight re-flashing sits in a similar range, while a full skylight replacement with a new unit can range from about a thousand dollars to several thousand per unit when drywall work is included. These are typical ranges, not quotes. Roof geometry, material choices like copper versus aluminum, and safety setup all move the needle.

If you’re planning a roof replacement in the next one to two years but have an active leak now, I’ll often recommend robust but limited work that integrates cleanly with the future project. That might be copper counterflashing on a chimney you’ll keep through the next roof cycle, or it might be an economical aluminum repair that we expect to replace later. I’ll explain the trade-off so you decide where to invest.

Ventilation, Attic Clues, and Preventive Care

Many roof leaks masquerade as condensation. Bathrooms vented into the attic, not outside, create winter frost that melts during a warm snap and drips like a leak. If I find damp sheathing without a clear roof entry point, I look at exhaust ducting and attic ventilation. A balanced system, with intake at the soffits and exhaust at the ridge or gables, keeps temperatures even and reduces ice damming. Ice dams aren’t just an eave problem. Water that backs up under shingles can track to vent and skylight cutouts and drip inside. In older Cape Cods with knee walls and short rafters, I’ve seen meltwater run all the way to a bathroom fan and pour through it like a funnel.

A quick attic walkthrough after storms is free insurance. Look for daylight at penetrations, dark streaks on rafters, wet insulation, or the earthy smell of wet wood. If you find a water stain on the ceiling, lightly pencil the edge and date it. When it grows or changes, you’ll have a clearer sense of timing and severity to discuss with your roofer.

What I Wish Every Homeowner Knew

Caulk is not flashing. Mastic and sealant have their place as gaskets or wind helpers, but they are not structure. A watertight roof relies on lapping solids in the direction of water flow. If a contractor’s pitch leans heavy on tubes of sealant and light on metal, think twice.

Second, match details to climate. In New Jersey, ice and water shield is invaluable at eaves, valleys, along sidewalls, and around skylights. An extra roll might add a few hundred dollars to a job, but it saves callbacks and drywall repair later. In coastal zones, specify corrosion resistant fasteners and flashings. Salt air accelerates failures you would not see inland.

Third, small leaks create big bills when ignored. Plywood delaminates, mold finds wet paper facings, and fasteners lose bite in punky wood. I’ve replaced entire sections of sheathing under what began as a pinhole at a vent. Repair early, repair right, and most leaks stay small.

Working With a Roof Repairman Near Me

If you call a roof repairman near me after a storm, be ready to talk symptoms: when the leak appears, which wind direction, any recent work on chimneys, HVAC, or satellite dishes. Photos from inside and out help. A good contractor will triage: temporary protection first if needed, then a permanent fix with clear scope. If the discussion turns to a full roof replacement, you should also receive a repair option for the immediate leak, plus an honest assessment of roof life and the price of new roof work on your home’s specifics.

Homeowners sometimes ask whether they can handle a vent boot themselves. If you’re comfortable on a roof, understand shingle layering, and can work safely with proper footwear and fall protection, a boot swap is one of the friendlier DIY jobs. Chimneys and skylights are different. Those details reward patience and experience, especially when the siding, masonry, or interior finishes are at risk. The cost of a pro is small compared to repairing water that traveled behind brick or stucco for a season.

A Short, Practical Checklist Before You Call

• Note exactly where you see water, and when it appears. Wind direction and storm type matter.
• Check the attic with a flashlight for wet sheathing near vents, chimneys, and skylights.
• Photograph the roof area from the ground. Zoomed shots can reveal a split boot or missing shingle.
• Gather any paperwork from previous roof work, including brand and install date if known.
• Ask the contractor for photos of the problem area and a description of the water path they believe is active.

When a Repair Becomes a Plan

You don’t have to choose between panic patches and blowing the budget. A seasoned roofing contractor near me will give you a spectrum: immediate stabilization, targeted flashing and vent repairs, and, when warranted, a timeline and estimate for roof replacement. If you’re planning to sell within a few years, a reliable repair and clear documentation might be enough. If you intend to stay for the long haul, compare the cost of repeating repairs against the investment in a new system with upgraded underlayments and flashings that buy you a quiet decade or two.

Either path begins the same way: find the true entry point and respect the physics of water. Flashings that step, boots that seal, skylights that shed, and underlayments that backstop the whole assembly. Do that, and the next storm becomes background noise, not a bucket on your hardwoods.

Final Thoughts From the Roofline

Roofs don’t leak as a moral failing. They leak because assemblies age, climates test them, and details get rushed. Most of what I fix could have lasted years longer with a little more patience at installation. If you’re reading this because your ceiling is spotted and your search bar says roof repair, start with the penetrations and transitions. Hire someone who can explain how water is moving, not just promise to make it disappear.

For homeowners across New Jersey weighing the price of new roof work against a focused repair, set expectations with real numbers and clear scopes. A single vent boot may be a quick save. A chimney that never had proper step flashing will ask for a more careful rebuild. Skylights reward manufacturers’ guidelines and good underlayment. When you need a roof repairman near me, look for craft, not just shingles. That is how you stop a leak for the next storm and the next season, not just the next hour.

Express Roofing - NJ

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Landmarks Near Flagtown, NJ

1) Duke Farms (Hillsborough, NJ) — View on Google Maps

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3) Colonial Park (Somerset County) — View on Google Maps

4) Duke Island Park (Bridgewater, NJ) — View on Google Maps

5) Natirar Park — View on Google Maps

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