Surface Drainage Ideas to Keep Your Backyard Dry

Standing water eats at a lawn slowly, and suddenly. Patchy grass, mosquito breeding, and waterlogged foundations show up season after season. I have repaired dozens of yards where a simple shift in surface drainage would have prevented the bigger fixes — regrading, buried drains, or rebuilding a patio. This article lays out practical ways to move water off your property, how to pick the right approach, and the trade-offs a homeowner will face when hiring a backyard drainage contractor or doing it themselves.

Why surface drainage matters A wet backyard is not only an aesthetic problem. When water sits on turf for more than 24 to 48 hours after a storm, grass roots suffocate and disease takes hold. Standing water near a house can saturate the soil around the foundation and increase hydrostatic pressure, leading to basement seepage or cracks over years. Surface drainage measures are the first line of defense. They are generally less expensive than full subsurface systems and are visible, so you know whether they are working. For many yards, changes to grading, strategic shallow swales, and targeted drains reduce the need for invasive excavation.

Diagnose before you act Walk the yard after a heavy rain and make notes. Where does water collect first? How deep is it, and how long does it persist? Does water come from the roof downspouts, a neighbor’s slope, or an impervious surface such as a driveway? Look for telltale signs: cracks in patios, displaced mulch, stressed plants, or grass that turns pale then brown. A simple string level across two stakes gives you a quick read on slope. A slope of at least 1 inch per 8 feet, roughly 1 percent, is often enough to carry surface runoff away from a structure. If you find less than that, grading adjustments or shallow swales are likely needed.

Common surface drainage strategies and when to use them Surface grading and regrading Regrading means changing the yard’s contour so water flows away from the house and toward an outlet, such as a street gutter, dry well, or storm drain. Small regrades are often done with a skid-steer or by hand for a planting bed. Regrading works best when there is a clear low point the water can reach without affecting a neighbor. Expect to move several cubic yards of soil for a modest slope change across a standard suburban lot. A typical contractor estimate for a simple regrade that does not require new sod or extensive erosion control can vary widely, but the cost usually reflects earth moved, labor, and whether trees or utilities are in the way.

Shallow swales and berms A swale is a shallow depression that channels water. When constructed with a gentle slope and lined with turf or erosion-resistant groundcover, a swale slows water, filters sediment, and moves runoff to a safe outlet. Berms are raised ridges that divert water around vulnerable areas. Swales and berms are particularly useful where you want to protect garden beds, patios, or the building perimeter without installing buried infrastructure. They also provide landscapers with planting opportunities that tolerate intermittent moisture.

French drains and surface inlet drains A French drain is a perforated pipe laid in a gravel trench. It collects subsurface water and redirects it to a safe discharge point. For surface drainage, shallow inlet drains, sometimes called trench drains or channel drains, catch surface runoff from patios or driveways and link to a channel or storm outlet. French drain installation in a backyard typically requires digging a trench with a consistent slope of at least 1 percent toward the discharge. For yards with a perched water table or localized saturation, a French drain is often the only way to keep areas dry.

Catch basins and downspout connections If roof runoff contributes the majority of the water, connecting downspouts to an underground drain line or directing them into a properly sized catch basin reduces surface pooling. Catch basins receive water, trap sediment, and then send it downstream through pipe. They are a compact, targeted solution for concentrated flows, such as at the corner of a garage. Make sure any discharge from these systems is legal and does not simply move your problem to your neighbor.

Permeable surfaces and rain gardens Replacing asphalt or concrete with permeable pavers or gravel helps water infiltrate rather than run off. A rain garden, planted in a shallow depression with suitable native plants, can absorb and slowly release a surprising volume of runoff. Rain gardens work best when the soil will accept some infiltration and when they're placed where water naturally pools. They add value aesthetically and ecologically but require plant selection and maintenance to perform well.

Which approach fits your yard The single best fix depends on source, volume, and destination. If the problem is mostly roof runoff within a small radius, downspout diversion or a catch basin may suffice. If a low point collects street runoff, a swale or regrading will give you persistent improvement. If the soil stays saturated through the season, you may need a French drain or a combination of surface and subsurface solutions.

A contractor’s eye: what I check on a first visit When a homeowner calls for yard drainage services, I spend 30 to 60 minutes walking the property. I check slope from house to street, look for areas of compaction from equipment or foot traffic, locate downspouts, and identify hardscape that sends water into the yard. I probe soil with a shovel to understand infiltration rates. If there is an existing low spot, I estimate depth and calculate the volume of water it holds after a typical storm. These quick numbers guide whether we recommend grading, a dry well, or French drain installation. If utilities are suspected in the impact zone, I advise a utility locate before any digging.

Practical examples and numbers Example one: small yard, roof runoff problem. A 2,000 square foot roof generates roughly 1,200 gallons of water in a one-inch rain event. If downspouts empty onto compacted turf, that water will find the lowest pocket and sit. Installing two 3-inch perforated drain lines to a dry well, or extending downspouts into a channel drain that leads to the street, will prevent pooling. The materials for a DIY channel drain kit for a small patio commonly range from $150 to $600, not counting labor.

Example two: low corner collects street runoff. A corner that gathers street runoff after storms is often best solved with a shallow swale and a curb cut or outlet to the street storm drain, subject to local regulations. A swale 6 inches deep and 12 to 24 inches across, lined with turf or erosion cloth and suitable plantings, can carry flow from a small storm. If the flow is large or concentrated, a buried pipe may be safer.

Example three: backyard trench drain installation persistent soggy lawn across a broad area. When the entire lawn remains wet for days, look for poor infiltration or a high water table. A system of French drains installed in a herringbone pattern, with clean gravel to a depth that intercepts the saturated layer, can redirect water to a discharge point. This is a heavier lift; costs reflect excavation, pipe, and restoration. Expect a substantial project for large areas.

A short checklist before you dig

• Call your local "call before you dig" number and get utility lines marked.
• Verify local stormwater regulations and whether discharge to the street is permitted.
• Identify a legal and safe discharge point that does not send water onto a neighbor’s property.
• Consider erosion control during construction to prevent sediment movement.
• Estimate budget and get at least two written bids if hiring a contractor.

Design and construction details that matter Slope consistency is king. A pipe that dips or flattens will stall and allow sediment to settle. Aim for a continuous, measurable slope toward the outlet. Use crushed stone or clean gravel around perforated pipes to maintain void space for water to flow and to prevent soil infiltration. Wrap the gravel and pipe in a filter fabric to limit fine sediments from clogging the system.

Backfill material and compaction matter when regrading. Overcompaction near the foundation can prevent infiltration but undercompaction can lead to settling and low spots returning. For most residential yards, light mechanical compaction of regraded fills is appropriate, followed by topsoil and restoration with sod or seed. If you are adding a berm, compact in lifts no more than 6 inches so the berm is stable.

Choose the right pipe. For buried systems, schedule 40 or SDR 35 PVC are common for solid runs to storm drains; corrugated flexible pipe is popular for French drains and lower-pressure situations. Perforation patterns differ by manufacturer, and a 360-degree perforated pipe is not always necessary. Consult product specifications and follow good practice for bedding and filtration.

Maintenance and long-term performance No drainage system is maintenance free. Surface swales need occasional mowing and debris removal. Channel drains and grate inlets fill with leaves; clean them several times a year or after major storms. French drains can lose capacity over a decade as fine particles migrate. An access cleanout or inspection port at the downstream end makes maintenance far easier.

If your solution uses a dry well, know its capacity and the expected infiltration rate of your soil. A dry well in sandy soil will empty quickly, while the same structure in clay will be ineffective. Measure the dry well emptying time after a controlled fill to verify performance.

When to call a professional backyard drainage contractor Call a pro if the water is affecting the foundation, if the yard communicates with neighboring properties, or when utility locates and deeper excavation are required. Professionals bring equipment, experience with required permits, and know-how on how to ensure the solution addresses both source and path. Expect an experienced contractor to provide a clear scope, a drawing showing the grading and pipe route, and references of similar projects.

Common mistakes to avoid Sending water to the wrong place. Never discharge stormwater to a neighbor, into a septic field, or into an unlined wetland without permits. Poor outlets create disputes and environmental problems. Overlooking the roof. If the roof and gutters dump directly onto the lawn, no surface regrade will keep up with persistent storms. Cover the obvious first. Using the wrong materials. A French drain without fabric and proper gravel backing will clog far sooner than a correctly built system. Shortchanging slope. A drain or pipe with insufficient slope will become a sediment trap.

Costs and trade-offs A simple surface regrade by a contractor for a mid-size yard can range from several hundred dollars if minimal material is moved to several thousand if heavy earthwork and sod replacement are required. French drain installation for a small area usually starts in the low thousands and can climb with complexity. Rain gardens and permeable paving are often midrange in cost and add long-term ecological and aesthetic value. DIY approaches save money but require physical labor and some technical competency. A poor DIY installation can cost more in repairs later.

Permits and regulations Check your local municipality for backyard drainage solutions requirements. Many cities require permits for new connections to a storm sewer, for significant grading, and for altering drainage patterns that could affect neighboring properties. Some homeowner associations have rules about visible swales and berms. It pays to ask before you start.

A few closing practical tips Start with the source of the water. It is the least expensive and most reliable place to intervene. Keep stormwater on its path with simple fixes first, like redirecting downspouts or adding a short channel drain, then escalate to regrading or French drains if the problem persists. Document elevations with a simple level or smartphone apps that give relative grade readings. Photograph problem spots after storms to show contractors what you need solved and to compare before-and-after performance.

When you plan a project, leave time for wet-weather windows. Some work cannot be completed when the ground is saturated. Conversely, installing a system in dry conditions and then testing it in a storm will give you the clearest picture of performance.

Fixing standing water in a backyard is often straightforward if you diagnose the source, pick an appropriate surface drainage solution, and follow through with correct construction and maintenance. Whether you hire a yard water drainage contractor or tackle a small project yourself, understanding the trade-offs and the practical steps makes success far more likely.