Installing a brand-new shower unit 22822

Setting Up a New Shower Unit

A successful shower setup requires cautious preparation and a great deal of work. For the most part, you will require to do three types of tasks: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you must decide on the type of shower that you want to set up. It is essential to ascertain whether the picked shower is capable of managing specific systems and can manage a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are developed to be Cranbourne plumbing experts flexible to different water pressures (such as kept hot water and cold mains).

It is likewise essential to consider the water pressure and the preparation of the piping and drain for the shower

Different Kinds of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower system can be linked to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed through the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and very simple to set up. Nevertheless, although the hose connection is basic, it is quickly removed. Furthermore, it is troublesome to change the temperature.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The tube and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely inexpensive alternative and no additional plumbing is included. However, the bath/shower mixers also experience troublesome temperature level control choices.

Manual Mixer: The hose and spray of a manual mixer shower unit are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a range of knobs (in licensed plumber close to me more costly showers). Although temperature control is a lot easier in manual mixer types, they are more costly than the formerly mentioned mixers. They likewise need extra plumbing of cold and hot water system pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The pipe and spray of this shower type belong of the wall unit and the hot and cold water products are linked to a single valve here too. It is total with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to prevent it from ending up being too hot. One of the most significant benefits of a thermostatic mixer shower type includes hassle-free temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most pricey of the different mixer choices.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single unit containing a powerful electric pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature level. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water cistern and a hot water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature easy. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated up straight by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is necessary to note that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure needs to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature and pressure to be changed via a knob. Designs with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they stay unaffected by other taps in other places in usage within the household. A major disadvantage of electric showers is that the control knob only enables the option of heats at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a higher pressure. This is problematic in the winter when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. However, this problem is taken on in residential plumber Baxter some models which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the kind of shower you want to set up, the shower head need to either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.

Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work included. Furthermore, the drainage system to get rid of the drainage will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will likewise need to be considered if an instantaneous or electrical shower system is being installed.

Use the direction guide provided with the shower unit to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipelines that will provide the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to protect the pipes, they must be given a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the primary shower control to the pipelines that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leaks, as some may need tightening.

If you are installing an electrical shower, keep in mind to switch off the electricity supply before making any electrical connections. When these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (in some cases as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood assistance beneath it-- perhaps composed of struts and blockboards. If you choose this option, the primary and circulation pipes will likewise need to be raised to satisfy the brand-new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is chosen, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm size supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as short and straight as possible so regarding keep maximum pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by reducing using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water system. You can attain this by bending the pipelines instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaking or overlooking regional code restrictions.

# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.

# Connecting copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting in between the two.

# Not using tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when installing them.

# Not setting up an air gap filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.

# Not appropriately aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, constantly run the outdoors tube valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause issues in your sink faucets and other pipes trim.