View source for Furnace Not Heating: Pilot Light and Ignition Solutions 95847

<html><p> <img  src="https://seo-neo-client.s3.us-east-1.amazonaws.com/airpro-heating-cooling/hvac%20repair.png" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p><p> When a furnace goes quiet on a night it should be roaring, most homeowners feel the same mix of frustration and urgency. Heat matters. It protects your house from freezing pipes and keeps the family comfortable, but it also reveals the health of a mechanical system that rarely gets attention until something fails. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve opened a furnace compartment and found the issue staring back at me, a tiny failed igniter or a stubborn pilot light. The good news: many ignition problems follow patterns you can diagnose with patience, a flashlight, and common sense. The better news: understanding how your system lights and monitors flame will help you decide when to try a safe fix and when to call a pro.</p> <h2> How modern furnaces create flame</h2> <p> A forced-air gas furnace doesn’t simply spray gas and hope for a spark. Under the hood, its logic board follows a strict sequence. Your thermostat calls for heat. The control board checks safety switches, then starts the inducer motor to clear the combustion chamber. A pressure switch confirms the draft. Only then does the board energize the ignition system. Depending on the model and era, that ignition happens one of three ways: a standing pilot, a hot surface igniter, or a spark igniter. A gas valve opens, flame establishes, and a sensor proves that flame exists. If proof fails within seconds, the logic board shuts the gas and often tries again. If it fails repeatedly, you’ll see lockout: the furnace pauses for minutes or remains off until power is cycled.</p> <p> That choreography is deliberate. Any break in the chain can leave you with a furnace not heating even though the thermostat is set correctly. The trick is to find which step isn’t completing.</p> <h2> Standing pilots: small flame, big role</h2> <p> Older furnaces use a standing pilot, a small flame that burns constantly and lights the main burners when the gas valve opens. If your heater not working falls in this category, start with the basics. Remove the burner door and look for a small flame at the pilot assembly. No flame means no ignition downstream.</p> <p> Pilots go out for a few reasons. A draft can snuff them, a weakening thermocouple can stop the gas supply, or debris can partially clog the pilot orifice. I once visited a rental where the occupant swore the pilot “never stayed lit.” The cause turned out to be a thermocouple hanging just out of the flame after someone bumped the assembly. That sensor needs to sit in the flame envelope so it heats properly. When it does, it generates a tiny voltage that keeps the gas valve’s safety circuit open. No heat on the thermocouple, no gas.</p> <p> Relighting a pilot is straightforward but should be done carefully. Follow the lighting instructions on the furnace label. Set the gas valve to “Pilot,” depress and hold, then use a safe ignition source at the pilot. Keep the button held for 30 to 60 seconds so the thermocouple warms and can hold the valve open. If the flame looks weak or lifts away from the tip, the pilot orifice may be dirty. A gentle cleaning with compressed air or a soft brush helps, but avoid poking the tiny jet with a pin, which can enlarge it and cause a noisy or unstable flame. If the flame is strong and blue yet still drops out when you release the button, assume the thermocouple is bad or misaligned. They are inexpensive and usually thread into the gas valve with a simple nut. Replace like for like, route it cleanly, and avoid kinking.</p> <p> One warning sign that shouldn’t be ignored: a yellow, wavering pilot that soots surfaces. That can indicate restricted combustion air or a partially blocked flue. Address dirty components, but if soot appears quickly or you smell aldehydes, shut the system off and schedule service. Combustion byproducts in living space are dangerous.</p> <h2> Hot surface ignition: the toaster coil you never see</h2> <p> Most mid-efficiency and newer furnaces use a hot surface igniter (HSI), a small ceramic element that glows orange like a miniature toaster coil to light the gas. HSIs are elegant, quiet, and finicky. They age with every heat cycle, and oil from fingers can shorten their life. If your furnace not heating is paired with an inducer humming and a burner that never lights, peek through the burner viewport during a call for heat. You should see the igniter glow before the gas valve opens. No glow suggests a failed igniter, broken wire, or power problem from the control board.</p> <p> I carry spare HSIs on the truck because they fail often, especially around the 10 to 12 year mark. Some fail earlier if the furnace vibrates, if there was a sloppy install, or if voltage is unstable. Matching the part matters. Manufacturers vary the resistance and geometry, so a look-alike isn’t always right. Many HSIs are held by a single screw or clip. Kill power before you touch it. Install the new element without overtightening, and never touch the carbide surface with bare fingers.</p> <p> If the HSI glows but the gas never lights, suspect a gas valve issue or a dirty burner crossover. Burners rely on clean paths for flame to travel from the first burner to the rest. Rust flakes or debris can delay ignition long enough for the board to decide it’s unsafe and cut gas. Cleaning burners and ensuring they’re seated correctly often restores proper lightoff. While you’re there, check the flame sensor.</p> <h2> Spark ignition: the click and tick of modern control</h2> <p> Spark-ignited furnaces generate a visible spark across an electrode near the burner. You’ll hear sharp ticking, then see flame if all goes well. Similar logic applies: no spark means bad ignitor, bad ground, or a failed control. Spark present and no flame points to gas delivery or dirty burners. Spark present, flame lights, then drops out after a second or two usually means the flame sensor isn’t proving flame reliably.</p> <p> Spark systems are a bit more forgiving than HSIs because the electrodes don’t run red hot, but they do collect carbon tracks and can crack insulators. Re-establishing a clean 1/8-inch spark gap and solid ground often saves the day.</p> <h2> Flame sensors: the quiet arbiters of safety</h2> <p> On both hot surface and spark-ignited furnaces, the flame sensor watches for ionized current across the flame. If it doesn’t see that microamp signal, the board closes the gas valve. A dirty sensor is a classic cause of short-cycling: burners light, run for two to ten seconds, then shut off. After a few tries, the unit locks out. I’ve solved more “no heat” calls with a piece of fine steel wool than with any fancy meter.</p> <p> The cleaning method is simple. Power down, remove the sensor (one screw, a single wire), and gently polish the rod to remove oxide. Avoid sandpaper that’s too aggressive, which can shorten its life. Reinstall, ensuring the rod sits squarely in the flame. If cleaning fixes the problem only temporarily, the sensor may be tired or the furnace may be grounding poorly. Poor ground kills flame signal. I’ve seen painted cabinet rails interrupt the ground path after a repaint. Scrape to bare metal under the mount if needed.</p> <h2> Safety interlocks you should respect</h2> <p> Furnaces are full of protective switches. When something goes wrong, these safeties prevent worse outcomes, but they also produce symptoms that look like ignition trouble. A clogged filter or blocked return can trip a high-limit switch, shutting burners mid-cycle. Restricted venting or a failed inducer can keep the pressure switch open, which prevents ignition entirely. A bad rollout switch can interrupt the control circuit after flame leaves the burner area, often as the result of a severely dirty heat exchanger or misaligned burners.</p> <p> If your heater not working coincides with unusually dusty filters, undersized return ducts, or a recent remodel that changed airflow, reconsider the airflow path. Most control boards flash diagnostic codes. A simple count of the blinking LED on the board, matched to the legend inside the blower door, tells you whether the board believes it is seeing open limits, failed pressure switches, or ignition failure. That saves guesswork. If you’re seeing repeat flame rollout trips or smell gas, don’t keep resetting. Have it evaluated.</p> <h2> A sensible path to troubleshoot without tearing things apart</h2> <p> Homeowners can do a surprising amount of triage without risking safety or voiding warranties. The sequence below mirrors how I approach a no-heat service call, minus the meter work. It assumes you’re comfortable removing a service panel and watching operation.</p> <ul>  <li> Verify thermostat settings and power. Confirm heat mode, set a higher temperature, replace batteries if used, check the furnace switch and breaker, and ensure the blower door is on so the door switch is closed.</li> <li> Check the air filter and vents. A packed filter limits airflow and can cause limit trips that interrupt heat. Look for blocked supply registers or closed dampers.</li> <li> Observe the start sequence. Call for heat, then watch or listen: inducer starts, igniter glows or sparks, gas opens, flame lights, blower starts. Note which step fails.</li> <li> For standing pilots, confirm a steady pilot flame. If out, relight per the label. If weak or yellow, clean gently and ensure proper gas supply. Replace a suspect thermocouple.</li> <li> For hot surface or spark systems, clean the flame sensor if flame lights then drops out. If no glow, inspect the HSI for cracks and replace with the correct part.</li> </ul> <p> If any step reveals gas odor, visible scorching, or a stuck inducer, stop and schedule service. Combustion and venting faults deserve <a href="https://mega-wiki.win/index.php/AC_Not_Cooling_After_Refrigerant_Recharge:_What_Went_Wrong_28192">furnace not heating problems</a> professional eyes.</p> <h2> Common scenarios I see in the field</h2> <p> Weather changes expose marginal parts. The first cold snap flushes out weak igniters. A furnace that ran fine last spring now sits in a hot closet after a summer of air conditioning, then gets hammered with longer burner cycles. That thermal stress ages HSIs. In my service notes, igniter failures cluster around years 8 through 15, with a noticeable bump on systems installed near the coast where salt air accelerates corrosion.</p> <p> Pilot assemblies often act up after a basement cleanup. Paint, drywall dust, or even spider webs can collect around the orifice. I once found a pilot tube almost sealed with a cocoon. The flame was just enough to heat the thermocouple when the basement door stayed closed, then died whenever anyone walked past and created a draft. A half-hour cleaning solved what looked like a valve problem.</p> <p> Flame sensors become intermittent rather than dying suddenly. When someone tells me the furnace heats the house in the morning but fails around midnight, I think of sensors. Overnight, colder return air and longer cycles expose a weak flame signal. Cleaning buys time, replacement buys margin.</p> <p> Pressure switch faults are frequently misdiagnosed as ignition failures. The board won’t even energize an igniter if it can’t confirm proper draft. A partially blocked condensate line on high-efficiency furnaces can hold water in the inducer housing and keep the switch open. Clearing the trap and ensuring proper slope often brings the furnace back to life without touching the burn side.</p> <h2> What about the gas valve?</h2> <p> Gas valves rarely fail compared to igniters and sensors, but they do fail. Before you blame the valve, verify that the igniter receives power and glows, that the board energizes the valve with 24 volts at the right moment, and that you have gas supply. A closed manual shutoff, a tripped seismic valve in quake country, or an empty propane tank can masquerade as valve failure. If a meter shows 24 volts at the valve during the ignition trial and there’s no gas flow, replacement may be in order. This is one of those times where the risk and code implications warrant a pro.</p><p> <iframe  src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d3163.3723658700796!2d-84.5519346!3d37.930854800000006!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x88425991f2c8d667%3A0xd6a4fcd021fabe26!2sAirPro%20Heating%20%26%20Cooling!5e1!3m2!1sen!2sph!4v1767010042088!5m2!1sen!2sph" width="560" height="315" style="border: none;" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p> <h2> When ignition problems point to deeper issues</h2> <p> A furnace not heating might simply be a $40 igniter. It might also be a symptom of poor combustion air, a cracked heat exchanger, or bad venting. Flame rollout marks around the burner compartment, scorch on wiring, or a smell that stings the eyes are red flags that something more serious is happening. Older gravity-vented furnaces share flues with water heaters. If the flue is undersized or deteriorated, or if a new, powerful range hood depressurizes the house, you can backdraft combustion appliances. That leads to condensation in heat exchangers and corroded burners. Diagnosing pressure imbalances requires tools most homeowners don’t have. Trust your senses and don’t force a system to run when it obviously isn’t happy.</p> <h2> Tying ignition health to overall performance and lifespan</h2> <p> Ignition parts are small, but they sit at the intersection of reliability and safety. A furnace that lights cleanly and consistently runs fewer failed trials, cycles less, and stresses components less. That helps the whole HVAC system lifespan. Most gas furnaces last 15 to 20 years when maintained. In harsh environments or with deferred maintenance, you may see major repairs starting around year 12. In clean, dry mechanical rooms with regular filter changes, annual cleaning, and an occasional proactive igniter replacement, I’ve kept units steady past year 20. The gains are not just theoretical. Fewer lockouts means fewer overnight calls and better comfort, and a furnace that lights quickly wastes less gas purging the chamber.</p> <p> There’s also an interplay with the cooling side. If you’ve noticed ac not cooling during summer and furnace not heating in winter, step back and look at shared issues: dirty filters, restricted returns, an undersized duct trunk, or poor thermostat placement. Airflow problems show up in both seasons, just with different symptoms. A blower stuffed with dust reduces heat transfer over the heat exchanger and over the evaporator coil. One system, two seasons, same bottleneck.</p> <h2> The cost curve: repair, replace, or improve</h2> <p> When a $40 to $150 part can restore heat, replacement is obvious. Where owners struggle is with repeated failures or mixed symptoms near the end of a unit’s life. If you find yourself replacing an igniter one year, a pressure switch the next, and now a circuit board, ask a technician to assess the whole picture. Heat exchanger integrity, blower motor condition, flame quality, static pressure, and venting should be reviewed. If the furnace is 18 years old with a pitted heat exchanger and you need a gas valve, sinking more money into it may not be wise.</p> <p> On the other hand, a 9-year-old furnace with a cracked igniter and a dirty sensor is not a candidate for replacement. Invest in a thorough cleaning and maybe add a surge protector to protect the board if your home sees voltage spikes. Minor upgrades like a better filter cabinet that seals properly, or a dedicated combustion air duct in a tight home, pay real dividends for reliability.</p> <h2> Seasonal habits that prevent ignition failures</h2> <p> Ignition systems don’t need much, but they do appreciate a clean environment and undisturbed wiring. Keep paint and solvents away from the furnace. Seal drywall dust during renovations. Change filters on schedule, usually every one to three months depending on type and household. If you run a high-MERV filter, make sure the duct system can handle the added restriction. Once a year, schedule a professional tune-up that includes combustion analysis, inspection of the heat exchanger, burner cleaning, and verification of safety devices. Technicians should check microamp flame signal and igniter resistance values. <a href="https://wiki-neon.win/index.php/Furnace_Not_Heating:_Thermocouple_vs._Flame_Sensor_Issues">reliable hvac repair services</a> Tracking those numbers year over year gives early warning before a no-heat night strands you.</p> <p> For homeowners comfortable with simple tasks, keep a spare HSI that matches your model. Label it with the date and store it in a padded box near the furnace. Tape a copy of the board’s diagnostic code legend or take a photo and keep it on your phone. These small steps shave hours off problem-solving when time matters.</p> <h2> When the furnace runs, but comfort still isn’t right</h2> <p> Sometimes the focus on ignition hides other issues. A furnace that lights and runs but shuts down early may be hitting the high limit due to low airflow. That can mimic ignition failure because the board will give you a flashing code and a cold house. Similarly, short-cycling from an oversized furnace wears on igniters because they fire more often. If you find that your home overshoots the setpoint, heats in bursts, or the system sounds like a jet at takeoff, consider a load calculation and duct evaluation. Right-sizing and proper duct design reduce cycle counts, which extends the life of every ignition component.</p> <p> For homes with combined heating and cooling, unresolved duct problems also contribute to ac not cooling in summer. The same starved return that trips the furnace’s limit switch can ice up the evaporator coil. People sometimes swap filters and think they solved it, but the underlying duct restrictions remain. Look for the root cause rather than chasing seasonal symptoms.</p> <h2> Edge cases worth noting</h2> <p> High-altitude installations require different gas orifices and sometimes different ignition tuning. A furnace set up at sea level but installed at 7,000 feet can show unreliable flame sensing because the flame properties change. I serviced a mountain cabin where the furnace lit every other try. The fix wasn’t another sensor, it was the correct orifice kit and a board update that extended trial-for-ignition time.</p> <p> Propane systems behave a little differently in cold weather. Tank pressure drops in extreme cold, and a nearly empty tank may not deliver enough flow for steady ignition. I’ve had calls where the furnace “fails to light” and the real culprit was a low propane level overnight paired with a morning rush of hot water and heat demand.</p> <p> Condensing furnaces introduce condensate management. A sagging PVC drain line traps water, which blocks the inducer passage, which stops ignition. The homeowner hears the inducer try, then stop. The igniter never even warms. Rerouting the drain with proper slope and clearing the trap fixes what would otherwise look like an ignition board failure.</p> <h2> Knowing when to stop</h2> <p> There is a clear line between careful observation and risky tinkering. If you smell raw gas persistently, if you see scorch marks outside the burner area, if a rollout switch has tripped more than once, or if carbon monoxide alarms sound, shut the system down and call for help. CO has no smell and no color, and the effects can be subtle until they aren’t. A qualified technician will check combustion with an analyzer, inspect the heat exchanger, and confirm safe draft.</p> <p> Electrical work around a furnace also deserves caution. Control boards carry 120 volts on one side and 24 volts on the other. If you’re not comfortable with a meter and safe lockout practices, don’t test live circuits. Parts swapping without diagnosis can get expensive and miss the real cause.</p> <h2> A measured plan for the next no-heat night</h2> <ul>  <li> Confirm basics: thermostat settings, power, blower door, filter.</li> <li> Watch the sequence: inducer, igniter, gas, flame, blower. Note the step that fails.</li> <li> For standing pilots, re-establish a clean, steady pilot and verify the thermocouple position.</li> <li> For electronic ignition, clean or replace the flame sensor if flame won’t stay proven, and inspect the igniter for cracks or no glow.</li> <li> If codes indicate pressure or limit issues, check vents, condensate drains, and airflow before assuming ignition parts are bad.</li> </ul> <p> A furnace that refuses to heat almost always tells you why if you know where to look. Start with <a href="https://meet-wiki.win/index.php/AC_Not_Cooling_After_Filter_Change:_Did_You_Do_It_Right%3F_82493"><strong>local heating and cooling repair</strong></a> the small, likely culprits, keep safety at the center, and use the system’s own diagnostics. Taking care of ignition components does more than restore warmth. It steadies the entire heating cycle, reduces stress on the rest of the equipment, and, over years, nudges the HVAC system lifespan in your favor.</p><p> </p><p>AirPro Heating & Cooling
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Address: 102 Park Central Ct, Nicholasville, KY 40356
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Phone: (859) 549-7341
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