View source for Deck Builder Designs: Creating the Perfect Outdoor Living Space

<html><p> A well designed deck changes how a home breathes. It pulls the kitchen toward the garden, frames a sunset over the fence line, and adds square footage where you actually want to spend time. When I meet a homeowner who wants a deck, they rarely want “a platform with rails.” They want a place to gather, cook, shower off after the pool, spread out with a book on a Saturday. Good deck design starts with how you live, not how many boards fit into a joist bay.</p> <p> Below, I’ll walk through how seasoned pros approach deck planning, materials, structure, and the design details that separate a forgettable build from a favorite room. I’ll also point out where to lean on a Deck builder, Remodeler, or Construction company, and where a handy homeowner or Carpenter can take on portions of the work. If you’re in a smaller market like Kanab, it can be especially helpful to ask a Construction company Kanab sized questions: availability of materials, seasonal wind loads, and soil conditions vary from county to county.</p> <h2> Start with how you use the space</h2> <p> Before sketches or lumber takeoffs, I ask for a week of observation. Where do you naturally walk when you step out back? How often will you grill? Do you entertain ten people a month or forty people twice a year? Families with young kids need clear sightlines from Kitchen remodeler tuned interiors to play zones outside. Empty nesters might want three things: a place for morning coffee, an evening fire, and low maintenance.</p> <p> One homeowner I worked with, a frequent host, told me she wanted “seating for eight” and a big grill. We staked out chairs with painter’s tape and quickly realized her dream counter would cramp traffic to the stairs. By rotating the grill station ten degrees and adding a triangular landing at the bottom of the stairs, we kept a natural walkway. That angled landing became the favorite spot for potted herbs and a little dog bed, proof that two feet of space in the right place counts more than forty in the wrong one.</p> <p> Think in zones. Cooking belongs upwind of lounging. Dining needs elbow room and a little shade. A hot tub or plunge barrel wants privacy and sturdy support. Most residential decks that feel “just right” have three distinct functions, each with its own boundary or change in elevation.</p> <h2> Match the deck to the house and the site</h2> <p> A deck should look like it grew with the house. Rooflines, window proportions, and siding color all suggest size and shape. A low ranch accepts a long, shallow deck that runs parallel to the eaves. A two story craftsman often welcomes a deeper rectangle broken by a bump out or a bay that echoes existing massing. If your home has strong symmetry, center the main stairs on a window or door axis. Asymmetrical homes handle more playful lines, like a chamfered corner or a curved edge that follows a garden bed.</p> <p> Topography also speaks up. In Kanab and other high desert towns, sloped lots and expansive soils affect footings and ledger strategy. On clay or fill, I specify deeper footings with bell shaped bottoms or helical piers that resist uplift and settlement. Where snow drifts stack on the leeward side, I prefer closed risers on stairs to avoid ice buildup blowing through. A local Construction company familiar with frost depth, wind exposure, and soil reports will anticipate these issues and adjust post spacing and beam sizing accordingly.</p> <p> If you’re dealing with an older home, look for signs of past movement. A ledger flashing failure may have stained or rotted the rim joist. A Remodeler with structural experience should assess whether to cut back siding and replace the band board before tying in a new ledger. Sometimes the best solution is a freestanding deck that sits close to the house but bears independently, especially on masonry exteriors or where waterproofing is already suspect.</p> <h2> Choose materials with both feet on the ground</h2> <p> Every deck material has a sweet spot. I’ll lay out the attributes straight.</p> <p> Pressure treated lumber is the budget workhorse for framing. It takes bolts well, spans predictably, and resists rot if detailed correctly. For visible surfaces like deck boards and rails, treated lumber can work when stained and maintained, but you’ll fight checks and cupping on south facing exposures.</p> <p> Cedar and redwood offer a softer underfoot feel and season nicely, but their durability depends on grade and exposure. On a covered porch or a low splash area, they can hold up ten to fifteen years with regular sealing. In full sun and rain cycles, lifespan can drop without vigilant care.</p> <p> Hardwoods like ipe, garapa, and cumaru bring density and longevity. I’ve pulled ipe boards after twenty years that still rang like a baseball bat when tapped. They are heavier, tougher on blades, and demand hidden fasteners or predrilling. If you love the look, budget both time and money for installation and a yearly oiling if you want to preserve that deep brown. Left alone, they silver beautifully but show footprints at first.</p><p> <iframe  src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d3184.4817941159968!2d-112.51141002415038!3d37.0460003721781!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x65bcca582f116773%3A0xee2d9a0f334a16df!2sDave's%20Professional%20Home%20and%20Building%20Repair!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sus!4v1768945137015!5m2!1sen!2sus" width="560" height="315" style="border: none;" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p><p> <img  src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3TJDCGM1qScCPT9pEKTnFuS4kBBvCuYbOCQi0NHHl_OJxaaNDWIEq75RfBtYUobD7q3AcXbVZUBORSq-mQ=s265-w265-h265" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> <p> Composite and PVC decking have matured. Early generations chalked and got hot. Modern lines vary widely. PVC tends to run cooler than most composites, particularly in lighter colors. Composite boards with a high percentage of mineral filler can resist expansion and creep. I specify hidden clip systems that allow for slight movement and provide clean lines. For railings, powder coated aluminum holds color, keeps dimensions crisp, and eliminates splinters. A Deck builder who works with multiple manufacturers will help you balance cost, warranty, and the subtleties that don’t show up in brochures, like how a board behaves on a miter in August.</p> <p> Hardware and fasteners are too often an afterthought. In coastal or high salt deicing areas, lean toward 316 stainless. Inland, 304 stainless or polymer coated structural screws work well. Avoid mixing metals that can set up galvanic corrosion with treated lumber. On a bathroom remodeler’s punch list, tile grout and fixtures get the spotlight. On a deck, it’s the post base, the ledger flashing, and the joist hangers that decide whether the structure outlasts a trend.</p> <h2> Where codes matter, they matter a lot</h2> <p> Decks fail in predictable ways, and building codes aim to address those points. Ledger attachment, guard rail resistance, and stair geometry carry the safety load. A properly flashed ledger, installed against sound framing with through bolts or structural screws, is non negotiable. In climates with wind or seismic activity, hold downs from beam to post to footing prevent racking.</p> <p> The 36 inch guard height most people know is a minimum, not a design guide. If you plan bench seating around the perimeter, the back of the bench does not count as a guard unless it meets height and load requirements. Stair <a href="https://www.2findlocal.com/b/15290407/daves-professional-home-and-building-repair-kanab-ut">carpenter near me</a> treads need consistent rise and run. That last step off the bottom shouldn’t be two inches taller just because the ground slopes. As a Carpenter, I measure ground to finished deck on day one and run the math so the final stair lands right after decking thickness and trim are in place.</p> <p> Local inspectors are allies. Bring a clean plan with spans, beam sizes, footing sizes, and railing details. If you’re hiring a Construction company or independent Remodeler, ask who handles permitting and whether they’ll be on site for inspections. An experienced Handyman can tackle maintenance and small upgrades, but new builds and major alterations should live under a permit with engineered details where required.</p> <h2> Frame for how you intend to use it</h2> <p> Design for the grill you have now, the hot tub you might want later, and the snow you can’t avoid. Standard live load requirements for decks vary by jurisdiction, often around 40 to 60 pounds per square foot. A hot tub can add 3,000 to 4,500 pounds in a concentrated zone. That requires doubled joists, tight spacing, and often another beam or pier. It’s cheaper to build the substructure once to support that future load than to retrofit after the fact.</p> <p> I frame steps wide when space allows. People linger on stairs and use them as seats during parties. A 5 to 6 foot wide stair centered on the main traffic path feels welcoming. If budget squeezes square footage, consider a stair that turns on a landing with a triangular wedge to ease flow around plantings.</p> <p> Curves and inlays look fantastic but start in the framing. For a curved edge, I’ll cut a laminated rim out of layers of plywood or use adjustable steel brackets to ease composite boards into a smooth arc. For inlays, I double joists and leave clearance for picture framing. Every detail above the joists needs solid backing below.</p> <h2> Shade, screens, and the art of comfort</h2> <p> A deck lives or dies on comfort at 3 p.m. in July. Roof extensions, pergolas, and shade sails each have a place. A pergola with 2 by 2 purlins spaced tight provides dappled light and a place to run vines or mount a fan. A solid roof tied into the house solves both shade and rain, but it raises flashing and snow load questions that belong on a Construction company’s desk, not a weekend to do list.</p> <p> Vertical screens expand the season. In buggy areas, retractable screens keep dining pleasant. In windy corridors, slatted privacy screens break gusts without acting like a sail. Orient slats to catch the prevailing breeze. I once rotated a standard privacy panel fifteen degrees on a windy lot outside town and cut the biting gusts by half while keeping ventilation.</p> <p> Heaters and lighting finish the comfort suite. Low voltage LEDs along stairs and rails improve safety without glare. I avoid floodlights that wash out the night and obliterate star views, especially in rural markets. For heat, infrared electric units under a pergola provide quiet warmth with minimal clearance requirements. Gas fire features add ambience but need ventilation, clearances, and sometimes seismic strapping. Plan fuel routes early. Running gas lines after skirting is up turns into an excavation.</p> <h2> The kitchen outside: plan like a Kitchen remodeler</h2> <p> An outdoor kitchen benefits from the same thinking as an interior one: workflow, utilities, and materials that like heat and water. Keep the hot zone, prep area, and landing spots in a triangle. If you add a sink, think through freeze protection. In cold climates, a frost proof sillcock and a way to drain the line prevent cracked fittings.</p> <p> Don’t stub a grill against vinyl siding. Heat shields help, but so does positioning. A simple masonry veneer or fiber cement panel behind a grill station avoids ugly melt marks and fires. For counters, porcelain slabs and high density sintered stone wear better than many granites outside. Avoid dark surfaces where temperatures spike; I’ve measured black composite counters at 175 degrees on a July afternoon. A lighter tone keeps the experience human.</p> <p> Ventilation under a built in grill matters. Leave service doors or a gap behind the appliance according to manufacturer specs. If you plan a smoker, give it its own landing, preferably downwind from seating. Rules you’d hear from a Kitchen remodeler apply with even more force outdoors: storage for tools right where you use them, a bin for ash or grease nearby, and lighting set for hands, not just ambiance.</p> <h2> Drainage, flashing, and the details homeowners never photograph</h2> <p> A deck that drains well stays quiet underfoot and resists rot. Around ledgers, step flashings and self adhered membranes overlap like shingles. I back prime cut ends on joists and posts. Where posts meet concrete, I use standoff bases that lift wood out of splash zones. In regions with snow, I pitch the deck slightly away from the house, a quarter inch over four feet, barely visible but enough to take care of puddles.</p> <p> Under deck drainage systems can create dry storage or a patio beneath an upper deck. Done right, they collect water before it hits joists, not after. Done wrong, they trap moisture and shorten a structure’s life. If you want a finished ceiling under a deck, design from the beginning with a system rated for that use, not a retrofit of roofing tin and hope.</p> <p> Skirting deserves airflow. Solid skirting looks tidy but can trap moisture. Slatted designs or hidden vents reduce mold and critters. On a build near a creek, we hidden hinged a section of skirting to access the void for seasonal inspections and to remove windblown debris. It’s a small trick that pays off during the storm season that always comes when you least want to crawl.</p> <h2> Safety, accessibility, and the guests you haven’t met</h2> <p> Good decks welcome everyone. A single step can exclude more people than you expect. If site grade allows, work toward a zero step entry at one location, perhaps along a side path that gently ramps. Handrails belong on any run of stairs that might challenge a guest, not just where code requires. Lighting the top and bottom tread with shielded fixtures prevents missteps without broadcasting to the neighborhood.</p> <p> For families with kids or pets, think about gateable rails and baluster spacing that respects small heads and paws. Avoid horizontal cable rails where climbing is irresistible unless supervision is constant. Where you do choose cables for the clean look, specify high quality fittings and plan a yearly tension check. Wobble in a railing is not a patina, it’s a hazard.</p> <h2> Maintenance mindset: what you’ll need to do and when</h2> <p> Every material ages. Knowing how keeps costs and frustration down. Composites want gentle cleaning twice a year. A soft brush, mild detergent, and a rinse take care of pollen and grime. Avoid film forming sealers on composites that can peel and trap dirt. Hardwood decks need oil if you want color retention, typically once or twice a season for the first year, then annually. If you prefer the silvered look, clean to remove surface mildew and accept the gray as a finish, not a failure.</p> <p> Fasteners back out on boards that swell and shrink. Hidden clip systems help, but a ten minute spring walk with a driver and a handful of color matched screws can stop squeaks before they start. Inspect post bases, especially where landscaping traps mulch against skirting. Termites and moisture both thrive in buried wood. If you’re working with a Handyman for seasonal tasks, share a simple checklist and a few photos of what “good” looks like. They’ll keep an eye on details between larger Remodeler visits.</p> <h2> Budgeting with open eyes</h2> <p> Deck costs swing widely. A simple, ground hugging treated lumber deck with a basic rail might land in the 35 to 60 dollars per square foot range in many markets. Start adding composite boards, aluminum rails, custom stairs, and a pergola, and it climbs into the 80 to 150 range. Built in kitchens, curved borders, engineered roofs, and hot tubs can push totals far higher. The spread reflects both materials and craftsmanship. A seasoned Deck builder charges for tight miters that stay tight and for flashing that doesn’t fail.</p> <p> Plan for soft costs. Permits, engineering, design time, and utility relocation add line items. If you choose a Construction company to coordinate trades, expect better sequencing and smoother inspections, which matters if your deck interfaces with a Bathroom remodeling project, a new sliding door, or structural changes inside. Cross trade coordination avoids one of the most common errors I see: doors set before deck height is finalized, leading to awkward step transitions or expensive rework.</p> <h2> When to DIY and when to hire</h2> <p> Many homeowners can handle staining, simple railing swaps, or adding a privacy screen. A confident Carpenter with two helpers can build a modest, freestanding platform deck on a long weekend if the footings are in and the plan is simple. The line changes when the deck carries a roof, ties into the house structurally, or sits more than a few feet off grade. Complex stairs and curved fascia reward experience. So does working around existing utilities and integrating with drainage.</p> <p> If you bring in pros, match the scope to the specialty. A Deck builder who does nothing but decks will have jigs, tricks, and supplier relationships that speed the job and improve results. A general Construction company handles design build packages, larger structures, and projects where the deck is one piece of a bigger puzzle. A Remodeling contractor comfortable with finish carpentry will shine on the visible elements: fascia returns, stair nosings, and the kind of railing details guests will touch and admire. Ask to see past work in person. Photos hide wobbly rails and spongy corners. Your feet won’t.</p> <h2> Design moves that pay off</h2> <p> A few low cost decisions deliver outsized returns. Picture frame the deck boards with a contrasting perimeter. It cleans the edge and protects board ends. Add a bump out for the grill or a reading chair; breaking the rectangle adds function and interest. If space allows, create a two step drop from the main deck to a secondary level. That gentle change defines zones without railings and keeps views open.</p> <p> Run boards diagonally or with a herringbone seam down the center on longer spans. It fights the visual bowling alley effect and stiffens the surface when joists are properly spaced. Mix materials thoughtfully, like a stone landing at the base of wood stairs or a paver path that leads to the garden. Lighting at knee height along the picture frame makes the deck feel finished and safe without the runway look that happens when every post glows.</p> <p> For privacy without a wall, a pair of planters with trellises on casters can shape space and move with the seasons. I once built a set with cedar tubs and powder coated frames that rolled to shelter a winter grill zone, then shifted to anchor a summer lounge. They cost a fraction of a fixed screen and earned compliments every time.</p> <h2> Regional realities: lessons from arid and alpine climates</h2> <p> In high desert towns like Kanab, UV exposure punishes finishes and heat reflects off pale soils. Choose lighter decking to reduce temperature underfoot. Provide shade early in the afternoon, not just at dinner time. Dust finds every crevice. Hidden fasteners help, and so do deck board profiles that shed grit easily. Afternoon winds can arrive hard and fast. Tie down umbrellas and use pergola rafters oriented to break those gusts.</p> <p> At elevation, freeze thaw cycles push water into micro cracks. Take expansion seriously with composites and PVC. Allow for gaps at board ends and transition details. Snow loads vary, but it is common to see drifted piles along railings after a storm. Use closed skirts and solid connections that don’t invite ice to grow between components. Stainless over coated steel in these conditions buys you many quiet winters.</p><p> <img  src="https://imgur.com/cQfa9te.jpg" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> <h2> Working across the remodel</h2> <p> Deck projects often align with interior updates. A Kitchen remodeler might enlarge a door to improve flow. A Bathroom remodeler might plan an outdoor shower for a pool or beach house. Coordinate thresholds and slopes in the design phase. If a bathroom’s new tile sits a half inch higher than before, the exterior landing needs to meet it cleanly. On accessible designs, keep door clearances, sill pans, and flashing layers in sync so water stays out and wheels roll smoothly.</p> <p> A deck can also serve as staging for siding or window replacements. If your home needs exterior upgrades within the next few years, talk to the Construction company about sequencing. Pulling a ledger to replace siding two years after a new deck goes in wastes time and risks damage. It is better to tackle envelope work first, then attach the deck to a fresh, properly flashed wall.</p> <h2> A practical pre build checklist</h2> <ul>  <li> Walk the site at different times of day to note sun, wind, and views, then sketch zones where they make sense.</li> <li> Verify structure: rim joist condition, foundation lines, and soil type, and decide whether the deck will be ledger attached or freestanding.</li> <li> Choose materials with maintenance and climate in mind, then price not only boards but fasteners, hardware, railings, and lighting.</li> <li> Draft a plan with spans, footings, and details, then review with the local building department or a trusted Deck builder.</li> <li> Sequence adjacent work with your Remodeler or Construction company so doors, siding, and utilities align with the deck build.</li> </ul> <h2> The payoff</h2> <p> When a deck is tuned to the way a household lives, it becomes the favorite room, even without walls. Coffee meets sunrise where a chair fits under a beam of shade. Dinners finally move outside because the cook station breathes and the steps invite people down to the yard. Maintenance feels manageable because materials match climate and expectations. And structurally, the thing just sits there, solid and quiet, through storm and thaw.</p> <p> That is the standard to hold: not flashy details, but an outdoor living space that is easy to use, honest about upkeep, and designed with the discipline of a remodeler and the eye of a carpenter. Whether you hire a Construction company Kanab local to your area or assemble your own crew, lean on their lived experience. Ask what they would build at their own home on your lot. Then let the site, the house, and the way you spend time guide the shape. The rest is reliable work: lines snapped straight, flashing lapped right, boards set with room to breathe, and a railing that feels like the banister of a favorite old house.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p><h2>NAP (Authoritative Listing)</h2>

<strong>Name:</strong> Dave's Professional Home and Building Repair<br>
<strong>Address:</strong> 1389 S. Fairway Dr., Kanab, UT 84741<br>
<strong>Phone:</strong> 801-803-2888<br>
<strong>Website:</strong> https://davesbuildingrepair.com/<br>
<strong>Email:</strong> dave@davesbuildingrepair.com<br><br>

<strong>Hours:</strong><br>
Mon: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM<br>
Tue: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM<br>
Wed: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM<br>
Thu: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM<br>
Fri: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM<br>
Sat: By Appointment<br>
Sun: Closed<br><br>

<strong>Primary Services:</strong> Construction, Remodeling, Decks & Patios, Handyman Services, Kitchen Upgrades, Bathroom Remodeling, Home Improvement, Commercial Repairs<br>
<strong>Service Area:</strong> Kanab, UT and surrounding area<br><br>

<strong>Google Business Profile (GBP):</strong><br>
Plus Code: 2FWR+CF Kanab, Utah<br>
Coordinates (LAT, LNG): 37.04600040, -112.50883510<br>
Google Maps URL: https://share.google/uEPOWVYPL5Pn9JD73<br><br>

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</p><p>Dave’s Professional Home & Building Repair is a community-oriented general contractor serving the Kanab, Utah region.<br><br>

Homeowners in Kanab, Utah hire Dave’s Professional Home & Building Repair for kitchen upgrades with quality-driven workmanship.<br><br>

For a estimate request, call 801-803-2888 to reach Dave's Professional Home and Building Repair and get a plan you can trust.<br><br>

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<h2>Popular Questions About Dave's Professional Home and Building Repair</h2>

<h3>What types of remodeling do you offer in the Kanab, UT area?</h3>
<p>Services include home remodels, kitchen upgrades, bathroom remodeling, interior improvements, and repair projects—ranging from smaller fixes to larger renovations.</p>

<h3>Do you build decks and patios?</h3>
<p>Yes. Deck and patio projects (including outdoor living upgrades) are a core service.</p>

<h3>Can you help with commercial repairs or improvements?</h3>
<p>Yes. Commercial building repair and restoration work is offered in addition to residential projects.</p>

<h3>What are your business hours?</h3>
<p>Monday–Friday: 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM. Closed Saturday and Sunday but available Saturdays by appointment.</p>

<h3>How do I request an estimate?</h3>
<p>You can call 801-803-2888 to discuss your project and request a quote.</p>

<h3>Do you handle smaller handyman-style jobs?</h3>
<p>Yes. Handyman services and home improvement installs/repairs are available depending on scope and schedule.</p>

<h3>How can I contact Dave's Professional Home and Building Repair?</h3>
<p>
Call: <a href="tel:+18018032888">+1 (801) 803-2888</a><br>
Website: https://davesbuildingrepair.com/<br>
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<h2>Landmarks Near Kanab, UT</h2>
<ul>
  <li><strong>Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park</strong> — Explore the dunes and enjoy a classic Southern Utah day trip. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Coral+Pink+Sand+Dunes+State+Park" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/coral-pink/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Best Friends Animal Sanctuary</strong> — Visit one of Kanab’s most iconic destinations and support lifesaving work. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Best+Friends+Animal+Sanctuary+Kanab+UT" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://bestfriends.org/sanctuary" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Zion National Park</strong> — World-famous hikes, canyon views, and scenic drives (easy day trip from Kanab). <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Zion+National+Park" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://www.nps.gov/zion/index.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Bryce Canyon National Park</strong> — Hoodoos, viewpoints, and unforgettable sunrises. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Bryce+Canyon+National+Park" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://www.nps.gov/brca/index.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Moqui Cave</strong> — A fun museum stop with artifacts and local history right on US-89. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Moqui+Cave+Kanab+UT" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://www.moqui-cave.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Peek-A-Boo Slot Canyon (BLM)</strong> — A stunning slot-canyon hike and photo spot near Kanab. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Peek-A-Boo+Slot+Canyon+Kanab+UT" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://www.blm.gov/visit/peek-boo-slot-canyon" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Kanab Sand Caves</strong> — A quick hike to unique man-made caverns just off Highway 89. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Kanab+Sand+Caves" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://www.visitsouthernutah.com/blog/4-must-do-hikes-when-visiting-kanab-utah/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
  <li><strong>Gunsmoke Movie Set (Johnson Canyon)</strong> — A classic Western-film location near Kanab. <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Gunsmoke+Movie+Set+Kanab+UT" target="_blank" rel="noopener">GEO</a> | <a href="https://www.visitsouthernutah.com/attractions/gunsmoke-movie-set/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">LANDMARK</a></li>
</ul>
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