View source for Avoid Winter Damage: Pool Closing Best Practices

<html><p> Every fall I get the same message from otherwise savvy homeowners: “We covered the pool and turned off the pump. That’s enough, right?” Not if you like your plumbing intact, your liner happy, and your spring opening bill under control. Winter does not negotiate. It expands, it contracts, it leans on every weak gasket and seam you’ve ignored since July. The good news is, a careful pool closing sets you up for an easy spring, and it costs far less than repairing a split return line or a buckled tile band. Whether you’re after an inground pool closing or planning an above ground pool closing, the fundamentals are similar. The local details matter too. If you’re searching “pool closing near me” and you live where winter bites hard, like Winnipeg, standards change. A Winnipeg pool closing needs more antifreeze, more patience, and <a href="https://h2oproctyn472.image-perth.org/pool-closing-service-avoiding-algae-blooms-over-winter"><strong>pool closing</strong></a> a little regional know‑how.</p> <p> This guide blends what manufacturers recommend with what actually works when the mercury drops below minus 20 and the wind starts chewing on your cover. I’ll call out the steps that save equipment, the ones that protect surfaces, and a few places where I see even seasoned owners make avoidable errors.</p> <h2> Timing is half the battle</h2> <p> Close too early and you trap summer warmth. Algae will throw a going‑away party under your cover and the chlorine bill in spring will make you nostalgic for autumn. Close too late and you risk freeze damage during a surprise cold snap. Timing depends on water temperature, not air. When water settles around 10 C to 15 C, usually late September to late October in colder climates, the biological clock slows. That’s your window. In milder regions you can push later, but still watch the nighttime lows. I’ve closed pools in Winnipeg the week after Thanksgiving, and in shoulder seasons with a 20 degree swing, timing becomes a tightrope. Use a thermometer, not your elbow.</p> <h2> Chemistry you can bank on</h2> <p> A balanced pool rides out winter like a hibernating bear. An unbalanced one corrodes metal, etches plaster, stains liners, and feeds algae under the ice. Aim to lock in balance 24 to 48 hours before you shut down the circulation.</p> <p> Here’s the sequence that keeps peace among the molecules. First, clear the water. If you can see the main drain at the deep end, you’re ahead. If the pool is cloudy, run the filter longer and clean it before you apply your closing chemicals. Then adjust pH to the 7.4 to 7.6 range. Alkalinity should land around 80 to 120 ppm for most pools. If you have a vinyl liner, lean toward 90 to 120 ppm to buffer pH drift. Calcium matters for plaster and tile - aim for 200 to 400 ppm. I’ve seen plaster etched over one winter from neglect here, and the fix involves a grinder and a check with too many zeros.</p><p> <img  src="https://i.imgur.com/mhIYVsE.jpeg" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> <p> Add your winter algaecide right before you shut the system down, preferably a polyquat 60. Avoid copper‑based products unless you enjoy chasing stains. Top up free chlorine to the higher end of normal for your sanitizer, not to shock levels. A SLAM level of chlorine can oxidize your algaecide and leave you with neither defense. Clarifiers are optional; if your filtration has been dialed in, you don’t need them. Enzymes can help reduce that springtime biofilm smell, though if your cover seals well and your water is cold, you’ll rarely need them.</p> <p> Salt water pools need the same chemistry, but turn the generator off for the season once temperatures dip and you reach your final chlorine target. Don’t rely on the cell to maintain levels once nights are routinely under 10 C - production becomes inconsistent, and you’ll chew through cell life for little gain.</p> <h2> The art of debris control</h2> <p> I closed a client’s pool last year that sat under oaks. He had raked, skimmed, and vacuumed, but skipped one step: leaf canisters in the suction line during the week before closing. The skimmer basket clogged every afternoon, the pump ran hot, and by the time I arrived, fine tannins had stained the stairs. If your trees shed in waves, plan for a week of daily skimming and vacuuming before you lock down. If you have a robot, put it to work. You want the floor as clear as you can reasonably manage. Every leaf you remove in fall is an hour you won’t spend scrubbing stains in spring.</p> <h2> Lowering the water the right way</h2> <p> Most homeowners fixate on “how far down.” The better question is “to where and why.” On inground pools with mesh safety covers, drop the level 4 to 8 inches below the tile line so expansion under ice doesn’t heave the tile. On solid covers that rest on the water, you typically lower to 1 to 2 inches below the skimmer mouth. The cover needs water support through winter to carry snow load without collapsing anchors or ripping grommets. For above ground pools, take it an inch below the return fitting if you’re installing a winterizing plate on the skimmer and plugging the return. If you’re using a skimmer guard rather than a faceplate, you may leave the water closer to the standard fill line.</p> <p> I use the pool pump to lower while it’s still plumbed, then finish with a submersible to avoid running the system dry. If you drain through the waste line on a sand filter, don’t forget to move the multiport back to “closed” or “winter.” Equipment homes have been flooded by an earnest helper who left the handle on “waste” and a rainy day did the rest.</p> <h2> Plumbing: blow, plug, protect</h2> <p> If there’s a hill to die on, it’s this one. Water expands roughly 9 percent when it freezes. In a flexible vinyl return line, that can split fittings. In rigid PVC, it can turn an elbow into a grenade. For a true inground pool closing that survives real winters, you want the lines dry and sealed.</p> <p> Here’s how the sequence goes in the field. Once the water is at winter level, remove return eyeballs. Open the pump basket and filter air relief to break suction. Use a blower that moves high volume air, not high pressure. I’ve used shop vacs successfully on short runs, but for deep main drains and long suction lines, a dedicated pool line blower saves time and doubt. Start at the equipment pad, push air through the returns until you see a vigorous boil at each return. Thread a winter plug into each fitting while bubbles are still rising. The trapped column of air acts like a cushion against any small infiltration.</p> <p> For skimmers, blow until you see a geyser. If you’re installing a skimmer plate on above ground models, crank it down and then add a skimmer guard inside for belt and suspenders. On inground skimmers, I prefer a Gizmo style expansion bottle combined with a threaded plug or Teflon wrapped Gizmo threads. Don’t omit the thread sealant. If you’ve ever returned in spring to frozen skimmer wells, you know the sound of cracking plastic that follows.</p> <p> Main drains deserve respect. If the line truly loops from the main drain to the pad with a valve, open it and push air until you see a rolling boil on the drain cover. Then close the valve while air still vents, locking the line air‑packed. If your drain is on a tee or you don’t have a valve, don’t sweat it. Many northern pools live long lives with water in the main drain line because the deep end rarely freezes solid. What you don’t want is a partially flooded shallow line that sits within the frost zone.</p> <p> Once returns and skimmers are sealed, push remaining water out of the heater. Most pool heaters have winter drain plugs at the inlet and outlet. Remove them and tilt slightly if the manufacturer allows. Some models have internal bypasses that hold pockets of water. A few seconds of air through the heater helps, but don’t blast high pressure into delicate heat exchangers. On cartridge and DE filters, open the drain plug at the base and the air relief. I always crack the union at the lowest point in the heater loop to make sure nothing is trapped.</p> <p> Add pool grade, non‑toxic antifreeze to lines if you live in a place like Winnipeg or anywhere that sees sustained deep freezes. It’s insurance, not a substitute for blowing lines. I pour roughly 1 to 2 liters per return line, more for long runs, and a liter or two in each skimmer after I set the Gizmo. Do not pour automotive antifreeze anywhere near your pool. That’s ethylene glycol, it’s toxic, and the cleanup is not worth the few dollars you save.</p> <h2> Equipment that hibernates well</h2> <p> Pumps like to winter dry. Remove the pump drain plugs, usually two thumb screws on the wet end, and store them in the pump basket so you find them in spring. Take the lid off and bring the basket indoors. If your winter is mild, you can leave the pump in place. In hard winter zones, many pros loosen unions and bring portable pumps and salt cells inside. For heaters, unplug from power and cover the top to keep nests and debris out, but don’t wrap tight with plastic. Trapping moisture invites corrosion. Salt cells prefer indoor storage as well, after a gentle acid wash only if you see scale. Never soak them longer than the manufacturer states, and never use a strength stronger than recommended. Owners have ruined cells with an enthusiastic vinegar and acid stew that ate away plating.</p> <p> For sand filters, set the multiport to “winter” or “closed.” On some valves there is no winter setting; leave it between positions to unseat the gasket. Remove the sight glass and pressure gauge, store both inside. Cartridge filters? Pull the cartridges, hose them thoroughly, and let them dry. DE grids deserve a careful wash and a visual check for tears. A ripped grid left in a sealed canister over winter grows a skeleton smell that lingers into July.</p> <p> Above ground systems are simpler but vulnerable to the same mistakes. Many above ground pool closing calls I see in spring involve cracked filter bases and split hoses because water sat in low bends. Disconnect the hoses, drain thoroughly, and store them coiled, not kinked.</p> <h2> Covers that save you money instead of grief</h2> <p> There are two big camps: safety covers and winter tarps. A well‑installed safety cover looks clean, sheds debris, and supports weight. If you have a pet with a death wish, a safety cover pays for itself the first time it prevents a swim in January. They come in mesh, solid, and hybrid. Mesh drains rain and snowmelt through, so you’ll top up chlorine less often, but they let fine silt through, and strong spring winds can deliver pollen that settles on the floor. Solid covers keep everything out, but you must pump rainwater off or install a cover drain to prevent sag and strain. In heavy snow zones, I prefer mesh for a free‑draining, low maintenance winter. In milder climates or under dirty trees, solid covers keep the spring cleanup light.</p><p> <iframe  src="https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d2568.7091031278874!2d-97.0490943!3d49.9230345!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x52ea7b609cd478ab%3A0x768af1e549930a07!2sSwim%20and%20Spas!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sca!4v1739568651876!5m2!1sen!2sca" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="" ></iframe></p> <p> Winter tarps are budget friendly and widely used on above ground pools. The secret is the edge seal. Use a winch and cable, then add a good row of cover clips or water tubes around the deck for ingrounds. Most tarps fail not from the material but from wind grabbing an edge. If you get chinooks and thaws, check after the first melt. Water recedes under the cover, the tarp slackens, and wind works it loose. A mid‑winter visit to adjust the pump on a solid cover and retension straps on a safety cover is a cheap insurance policy.</p> <p> If you’ve ever fished a barbecue cover out of a skimmer well, you know wind finds everything. Remove ladders, handrails, and any deck furniture that could turn into airborne hardware. Rails stored indoors come back shiny. Rails left installed collect water that freezes, expands, and sometimes cracks anchors.</p> <h2> The above ground twist</h2> <p> Above ground pool closing has its own rhythm. The structure depends on the water for support, so you never drain it down more than a few inches. In fact, draining too far can crumple walls under a snow load. Install a winterizing plate on the skimmer to avoid removing the entire skimmer assembly. Add a skimmer guard if your cover tends to sag into the skimmer mouth. Use a return plug with an O‑ring and consider a directional plug that blocks wind from whistling into the line. I’ve seen returns spin like whistles in prairie gales and work water past plugs.</p> <p> Foam rope in skimmers and water bags around the deck edges reduce abrasion of the liner against the frame during freeze thaw cycles. If the pool sits in a yard with winter sun only on one side, the thaw gradient can pull on the wall unevenly. Keep snow cleared evenly around the perimeter when safe. And yes, resist the urge to walk on the ice to knock off snow. The liner underneath doesn’t heal from sharp ice cleats.</p> <h2> The regional factor: what a Winnipeg pool closing gets right</h2> <p> People from milder regions sometimes misunderstand how winter behaves on the prairie. It’s not just the cold, it’s the duration and the wind. A Winnipeg pool closing is conservative because it has to be. I add more antifreeze to skimmers, and I’m picky about blowing every return until I see an aggressive boil. I prefer mesh safety covers with dense weave that hold up under drifting snow and fierce gusts. For heaters, I pull the drain plugs and add a few seconds of air until I feel zero resistance at the outlet. Underground plumbing often runs deeper to sit under the frost line, but risers and equipment loops still live in the danger zone. I always store salt cells indoors and I always remove pressure gauges. The only good gauge in spring is the one that wasn’t shattered by an ice crystal.</p> <p> If you’re hunting for “inground pool closing service” or any “pool closing service” in a place with real winter, ask one question up front: what’s your process for blowing and plugging lines? The right answer mentions an air blower, seeing bubbles at the returns, and plugging under flow. If they say “we pour antifreeze and call it good,” keep searching.</p> <h2> Winter gadgets that actually help</h2> <p> Most gadgets promise more than they deliver. A few earn their keep. Skimmer guards prevent skimmer walls from squeezing and cracking if they freeze solid. A quality mesh safety cover with stainless anchors outlasts two or three cheap tarps. A reliable automatic cover pump on solid covers prevents mid‑winter ponds that turn into skating rinks. For people who forget to check the pool every few weeks, a smart outlet with a temperature alert reminds you to power that pump when a warm spell dumps rain.</p> <p> Avoid floating winter chemical kits that advertise “set and forget.” Chemistry is a system, not a slow cooker. If your cover is tight and water is cold, you won’t need much mid‑winter dosing. If your cover is loose and lets in sunlight, tablets bobbing in a gizmo will bleach your liner at the waterline and do little for the rest of the pool.</p> <h2> Mistakes I see every October, and how to dodge them</h2> <ul>  <li> Lowering water too far under a solid cover. The cover loses water support, stretches, rips at the seams, and the anchors pull out of the deck. Under a solid, keep the water just below the skimmer; pump the cover, not the pool.</li> <li> Forgetting to remove drain plugs from pumps and filters. A thumb screw costs pennies. A cracked volute runs into hundreds.</li> <li> Blowing lines from the wrong end. If you blast from a return, you can push water deeper into the system. Always go from the pad outward unless the layout demands otherwise.</li> <li> Relying on pool noodles in skimmers instead of proper guards. Noodles compress, saturate, and freeze. Skimmer guards are cheap and designed to take the squeeze.</li> <li> Covering heaters and pumps in airtight plastic. Moisture condenses inside and rust does its quiet work all winter. Use breathable covers or leave them exposed after you’ve drained.</li> </ul> <h2> When a pro is worth it</h2> <p> If your pad looks like a submarine control room, with a heater, a chlorinator, a salt cell, an automation manifold, and three water features, you’ll save time and nerves by hiring an inground pool closing service. They’ll have the blower, the plugs, the fittings, and the muscle memory. If you have a simple above ground pool, a confident homeowner can handle an above ground pool closing with a weekend and a careful checklist. The deciding factors are the depth of freeze where you live and your tolerance for risk. A cracked return line underground can cost several thousand to locate and fix. Paying a pro a few hundred once a year often pencils out.</p> <p> If you are browsing “pool closing near me,” look for companies that photograph their work, explain their process, and leave you with a written record of what was plugged, what was drained, and where antifreeze went. It’s your map in spring if something surprises you.</p> <h2> A simple, reliable closing sequence</h2> <ul>  <li> Balance water, clean thoroughly, and run the system 24 hours to stabilize chemistry.</li> <li> Lower water to the appropriate level for your cover type, then remove ladders and accessories.</li> <li> Blow out returns and skimmers from the pad, plug under bubbling flow, and add pool‑grade antifreeze where needed.</li> <li> Drain the pump, filter, heater, and any chlorinators; store removable parts indoors.</li> <li> Install the cover, tension evenly, and set a plan to check it after the first storm and mid‑winter thaw.</li> </ul> <p> Follow that rhythm and most of the ugly spring surprises vanish. You’ll still fish out the occasional blown‑in leaf and maybe one confused frog, but you won’t be pricing new heaters.</p> <h2> Spring begins in fall</h2> <p> An easy opening isn’t luck, it’s leftover work you did when your hands were cold and the days were short. When I pull a safety cover in April and see clear water and clean tile, I know what happened the previous October: a pool owner who resisted shortcuts. They balanced water, they blew lines until bubbles danced, they plugged while their fingers were numb, and they gave the cover a final check after the first big snow. That discipline pays you back in real numbers - fewer chemicals, less labor, and no emergency calls.</p><p> <img  src="https://i.imgur.com/SFbiaFt.jpeg" style="max-width:500px;height:auto;" ></img></p> <p> If you’re in a place where winter means business, like Winnipeg, give yourself that margin. A Winnipeg pool closing assumes the worst and leaves you ready for the best. If you’d rather hand it off, find a pool closing service that treats your plumbing like their own. The difference between a slapdash shutdown and a proper closing shows up when the frost leaves the ground. The careful pool opens with a shrug. The careless one opens with a shovel.</p> <p> There’s a quiet satisfaction in seeing the cover sit tight under snow, the straps humming in the wind, and knowing everything underneath is safe. That’s the goal. Not just to get through winter, but to arrive in spring ready to swim without rebuilding what winter broke.</p></html>